Extra Deep Diving Crankbait Tips

When it comes to deep cranking, reaching new depths is often the key to success. In the recent past anglers would go with ultra light lines, huge lengths of line, even added weight to try and reach increased depths.

Today its as simple as opening the package and throwing one of a variety of extra-deep diving crankbaits. This new genre of baits reaches deeper, holds depth better, and calls fish from farther. If you're still resistant to the new trend in "big" cranks, you need to take a look. I'm not saying they're the solution to every problem but they are a whole new genre of bait and every well rounded angler should at least understand their benefits and how they might fit in to his or her arsenal.

If the bass in your lakes are keyed on small baitfish these may not be the right choice for you. If they're keyed on large bait or if they are at depths in excess of 25 feet, these baits definitely have a place in your arsenal.

Many companies are vying for a spot in this genre but only 3 (that I'm aware of at the time of this writing) have successfully entered the category. Those 3 in no particular order are the Lucky Craft Magnum, the Strike King 10 XD, and the 6th Sense 500DD.

From Front to Back: Lucky Craft Magnum, Strike King 10 XD, 6th Sense 500DD, Norman DD22

Fishing these "magnum" size baits is really no different than fishing any other deep diving crank. It may be a little tougher to turn the handle on the reel but the mechanics are all the same. One added benefit is the baits are fairly snag resistant. Because of their overall mass they tend to float out of snags extremely well if the bill itself is what is stuck.

One tip to consider is adding a 2nd split right to the rear treble. By doing this you eliminate torque, making it much harder for the bass to throw the bait. With smaller cranks this isn't critical but with these big, heavy baits, it is very important to keep the odds in you favor.

Pick up one of these new cranks and give it a try. You just might be surprised what is lurking a few feet lower on your favorite ledge!

How to Safely Store Swimbaits

Its no secret that swimbaits carry outrageous price tags. Its easy to spend hundreds, sometimes thousands of dollars without even filling a tackle box. At those prices you can't afford to let your baits fall apart. Despite the ridiculous way Matt stores his (see "The Truth about Bait Storage") its important to take care of these valuable baits. Leaving them piled up for even a short time can cause the baits to kink and warp, rendering them useless.

Last week we received some questions about the baits hanging on the wall in the background of the video. Tim has developed a great method for storing baits long term that keeps them safe and organized. In this week's video he breaks down how to store glidebaits and other hard swimbaits, as well as softbaits like the Huddleston (Wedge Tail) and Osprey (Boot Tail).

Baitsmith, Osprey, and Huddleston Swimbaits stored vertically to keep the tails from bending

What you need to complete the project:

-Pegboard

-Tool Organizers

-6" Pegboard Pegs

-2/0 Snap Swivels

Follow Tim's step by step instructions to clean up your baits, organize your tackle, and avoid all of the damage that comes from leaving your baits laying unorganized in boxes for extended periods of time. This simple project will only take a few hours to complete but can save hundreds of dollars in unnecessary damage to your favorite baits.

Finesse Tubes: Two Very Different Styles

From coast to coast, bed fishing to ledge fishing, the tube jig has a place on every boat. There is no surprise that tubes have found a place in both Tim and Matt's arsenals. The surprise is that after years of fine tuning their approaches, they agree on virtually nothing except the tube's effectiveness on both numbers and size of bass.

Both anglers break down the details of their baits, equipment, and even touch a bit on tactics throughout the video for finesse fishing with tubes.

This "Old Ugly" tube slid up the line exposing the jig hook in this bass' mouth

Where Tim prefers a 7'9" 2 power (medium light) rod, Matt prefers a 7'8" 3 power (medium) rod. **For those angler's looking for a shorter rod try the 742 or 743 Spinning Rods**

Both angler's prefer similar tubes but do not agree entirely on brand or color. Tim prefers the 3 1/2" Dry Creek Tube while Matt prefers the 3 1/2" tube from Get Bit Baits. The size is identical but the colors are different, as are the textures.

Lead heads are another point of disagreement. Tim adamantly believes in the 90 degree line tie of the Owner Darter Head. Matt prefers the 60 degree of the Bite Me Flat Eye Tube Jig with a 3/0 hook.

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From Top to Bottom: Mud Pie, Green Pumpkin Purple/Gold, Old Ugly

The one aspect of their equipment that both anglers agree on is the weight of their line. Both use a 10-15 lb braided line (Sufix 832 or Power Pro) and connect it with a blood knot to 6-8 lb fluorocarbon. (Sunline for Tim and P-Line for Matt)

At the end of the day what you should take away from this article is that there isn't a right answer.

Both anglers have proven their style effective on all 3 major species of bass. Each has refined their approach to meet their style and needs on the water. Decide which style best fits your fishing and apply these tips to begin refining your tube fishing.

Part 2: Knots and Hooks for Braided Line

There are still a lot of misconceptions about braided line. The biggest fear is that of knot strength. The second is the fear of bending out hooks. This week's video is dedicated to debunking these misconceptions and teaching you how to avoid all of the potential pitfalls.

Learning to tie proper knots for braid to leader connections, braid to hook connections, as well as leader to hook connections, is critical. If you can practice 3 simple knots with 3 variations for different line sizes and types, you'll be able to adapt to any conditions and situations the fish can throw your way. The knots are the Blood knot, San Diego Jam Knot, and Palomar Knot. The video will also break down the variations of all 3 knots I use to adapt to different lines and keep these knots strong.

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6 lb fluorocarbon tied to 15 lb braided line with a modified blood knot (7 wraps on the fluorocarbon, 11 wraps on the braid) Shown with a worm hook eyelet for size comparison. Truly a "micro" knot.

The blood knot, for whatever reason, has not gained popularity with bass fishermen. It is by far the best knot I've found for connecting braid to both monofilament and fluorocarbon leader materials. When tied properly I can break the leaders over and over again without breaking the connection knot itself.

Another fear about connection knots is that they will be traveling in and out of the guides and "banging". The theory is that this stresses and weakens the line. While this could be true, I've not experienced it. I reel my connections knots in and out of the guides (and even on/off of the reel) hundreds of times each day and have no issues whatsoever. The smaller line diameters in particular (see the pictures for size reference to a worm hook eyelet) create such small knots that they have no problem passing in and out of the reel without making any noise. There is no reason to fear a connection knot if you tie it the way I show in the video.

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Dealing with braided line, its lack of stretch, and how this applies to the hooks you choose to use is actually very simple. There is no mystery, no question of whether or knot your hooks can withstand the forces of braided line and big fish, you simply need to adapt. If you're currently using mono or fluoro and want to make the switch, step up your hooks. If you currently use light wire worm hooks, switch to medium. If you use heavy worm hooks, switch to the 3x Owner, ZO-Wire Owner, or Gamakatsu Superline Hooks. If you're using trebles, step up to owner 3x trebles (ST-56) or even gamakatsu 4x hooks.

Give these tips a try and report back with your experiences. Have you found another knot that simply does not break when under stress? We'd love to hear about it!