Part 2: Knots and Hooks for Braided Line

There are still a lot of misconceptions about braided line. The biggest fear is that of knot strength. The second is the fear of bending out hooks. This week's video is dedicated to debunking these misconceptions and teaching you how to avoid all of the potential pitfalls.

Learning to tie proper knots for braid to leader connections, braid to hook connections, as well as leader to hook connections, is critical. If you can practice 3 simple knots with 3 variations for different line sizes and types, you'll be able to adapt to any conditions and situations the fish can throw your way. The knots are the Blood knot, San Diego Jam Knot, and Palomar Knot. The video will also break down the variations of all 3 knots I use to adapt to different lines and keep these knots strong.

View fullsize

6 lb fluorocarbon tied to 15 lb braided line with a modified blood knot (7 wraps on the fluorocarbon, 11 wraps on the braid) Shown with a worm hook eyelet for size comparison. Truly a "micro" knot.

The blood knot, for whatever reason, has not gained popularity with bass fishermen. It is by far the best knot I've found for connecting braid to both monofilament and fluorocarbon leader materials. When tied properly I can break the leaders over and over again without breaking the connection knot itself.

Another fear about connection knots is that they will be traveling in and out of the guides and "banging". The theory is that this stresses and weakens the line. While this could be true, I've not experienced it. I reel my connections knots in and out of the guides (and even on/off of the reel) hundreds of times each day and have no issues whatsoever. The smaller line diameters in particular (see the pictures for size reference to a worm hook eyelet) create such small knots that they have no problem passing in and out of the reel without making any noise. There is no reason to fear a connection knot if you tie it the way I show in the video.

View fullsize

Dealing with braided line, its lack of stretch, and how this applies to the hooks you choose to use is actually very simple. There is no mystery, no question of whether or knot your hooks can withstand the forces of braided line and big fish, you simply need to adapt. If you're currently using mono or fluoro and want to make the switch, step up your hooks. If you currently use light wire worm hooks, switch to medium. If you use heavy worm hooks, switch to the 3x Owner, ZO-Wire Owner, or Gamakatsu Superline Hooks. If you're using trebles, step up to owner 3x trebles (ST-56) or even gamakatsu 4x hooks.

Give these tips a try and report back with your experiences. Have you found another knot that simply does not break when under stress? We'd love to hear about it!

Part 1: Why You Should Use Braided Line

In much of the country, braided fishing line has been extremely well received. Anglers have found that its easier to feel baits, get strong hooksets, and haul fish out of heavy cover. Despite the overall acceptance there are still a few places where it is viewed as overkill, accused of unreliability, and some fishermen even blame it when they're not catching fish. Even after decades of successful use some anglers still hold out.

I really believe the misconceptions about braid come from a lack of education. I remember sitting in a seminar listening to an angler talk about braid and genuinely believing he was lying to me. I've been there, I've felt it, so its easy to understand how some guys still make those same mistakes.

I filmed this video several years ago but the information is still so relevant. After several years of experimentation and on the water experiences I still agree with every word in the clip.

For those that are ready to learn, allow me to introduce you to how simple it is to make the transition to braided line. This is such a great topic we're going to break it down in to two parts. Today in Part 1 I'll discuss how to adjust your equipment. In Part 2 we will cover how to adjust your terminal tackle including an explanation of leaders, knots, and superline hooks.

View fullsize

Matt's favorite braids for swimbaits (p-line), frogs and flipping (Power Pro) and jigs or finesse fishing (Sufix 832)

Let's dispel some myths:

Most anglers are afraid that switching to braid will cost them a lot of money. Whether it be the actual cost of braided line, the cost of new rods/reels, or just some perceived expense, this is a real concern. Let me dispel it by saying, DON'T BUY NEW RODS. The gear you have is perfect for braid. Instead of buying new gear simply experiment with slightly softer rods for each bait category. (use a medium where you used to use a medium heavy, or a heavy instead of an extra heavy.) As for cost of braid, its often a non-issue because you may only spool a reel 1-2 times per year.

Another concern is that braid can only be used in murky water. This simply is not true. I've successfully fished braid (with and without a leader) in water with 20-40 feet of visibility. Its important that you understand each style of bait you're throwing. If the bass is keying on the bait (reaction) they generally will not be bothered by the visible line. If the fish is studying the bait before committing then visibility is an issue but can easily be solved by tying a leader of mono or fluorocarbon. In addition to concealing the line, the leader will also act as a buffer and shock absorber. Shock absorption is key to keeping fish hooked when the battle comes close to the boat.

View fullsize

Tim and Matt with handfuls of bass that were easily landed on 20-30 lb braided line

Finally, braid isn't just for power fishing. While heavy cover is where braid found its niche, its expanded to every corner of bass fishing. Whether you're throwing a walking topwater like a Spook for suspended fish, or dropshotting 50 feet deep in a clear reservoir, braid will improve your catch rate. The line is extremely responsive, even over great distance. This allows you to feel more bites, set the hook more easily, and work baits without as much physical effort. The finesse applications for light braid are endless. The deeper the water, the lighter the lure weights, the more dramatic the benefits will be.

Making the transition can be a little scary at first but take the step. Choose a rod or two and take the leap! In part two I'll show you the knots you need to know, how to set up leaders correctly, as well as some quick tips on hooks to get you headed in the right direction. Its time to take the leap and experience what you've been missing!

Lure Retrievers: How to Save Money

Nearly every bass boat I've ever climbed aboard has had some kind of lure retriever laying in the back of a locker or under a console. They're usually covered in dust and it seems that every guy has a different name for them. Whether you own a hound dog, bait knocker, plug knocker, pocket knocker, an extendable pole, or just a plain old lure retriever, its time to learn how to use it.

We all own retrievers but I almost never see guys use them. What is it that compels us to break off jigs, crankbaits, texas rigs, even swimbaits, without so much as a second thought? I think the answer lies in a lack of education.

A lure retriever is one of those contraptions that really ought to come with an owner's manual. Between the pretty pictures and your choice of 8 languages we could all start saving money on baits! Until that happens, this video is going to have to suffice.

View fullsize

Matt Shows off a Jewel Baits Hound Dog, an $8 contraption that has single-handedly saved nearly $1000 dollars in swimbaits in the past two years alone.  

We've broken the video down in to sections and will show how/when to use the traditional bait knocker (with or without chains), the extendable pole style, and the pocket knocker style retrievers.

Once you've seen the proper technique it becomes very simple to get your baits out of snags. At the very least, start carrying the pocket knockers with you when you fish. It takes an extra 10 seconds to slide one down the line and it gets the vast majority of your baits out of snags with just a shake of the rod tip. Its not a silver bullet but these techniques save us thousands of dollars every year. If you're not putting a retriever to work for you, you're throwing money down the drain.