When should you use mono? What about braided line or Fluorocarbon? Matt explains what each line is for, how to use it, and when to avoid it. We also discuss leader materials and how to tie connection knots.
This video goes in depth about all 3 fishing lines. We ignored copolymer for the sake of time as its really just an "in between" between fluorocarbon and monofilament. All of these different styles of line are important. Each one has a place and will increase your success while fishing. But use the wrong line for the wrong purpose and it will drive you insane! A perfect example that we forgot to cover in the video is that fluorocarbon sinks. Use it for topwater and it will drive you insane! But use it in ultra deep water and it will make it easier to keep bottom contact.
Below is a break down of the different lines that we use on a regular basis.
Blood Knot- This is my core knot for all connections between braid and mono or braid and fluoro. If connecting to fluorocarbon its CRITICAL that the knot is wet when cinching up or the fluoro will be burned.
Blood Knot Video: https://youtu.be/XKn9Pgl1sYI
Nail Knot- This is an extremely strong knot but requires an extra tool or straw to tie it effectively on the water.
Finesse in crystal clear water: 10 lb braid (use 15 lb if on a low end reel) to 5-8 lb fluoro
Finesse in clean water: 10 lb braid to 6-10 lb mono
Texas Rigs: 40 lb braid to 12-17 lb mono
Finesse Jigs: 30 lb braid to 10-15 lb mono or 12-15 lb fluoro
Jig Fishing: 50 lb braid to 15-20 lb mono
Crankbait option 1: 12 lb fluorocarbon (Assassin)
Crankbait option 2: 20 lb Braid (Sufix 832) to 12 lb mono
Swimbait: 80 lb braid to 30 lb mono
punching: 65 lb braid (no leader)
Frogging: 50-65 lb braid (No leader)
Jerkbait option 1: 20 lb braid to 10 lb mono leader
Jerkbait option 2: 12 lb fluorocarbon
Shaky Head: 30 lb braid to 10 lb mono
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